One of the primary desserts I made as a younger chef in Britain was summer time pudding, and the amount of berries that went into it shocked me. Earlier than that, I merely hadn’t realised how beneficiant you could be with berries and the way a lot you get in return, each in complexity of color and depth of flavour.
The recipe I adopted additionally had a bottle of purple wine in it, and this taught me which you can amplify the tartness of berries manifold whenever you match them with different sources of acidity.
In the present day’s puddings replicate my first classes cooking with contemporary berries, with an abundance and a mouth-puckering sharpness which might be excellent for the peak of summer time.
Berry platter with sheep’s labneh and orange oil (pictured above)
This show of the season’s greatest can double up as a light-weight dessert or as a brunch centrepiece. You may make your individual labneh, nevertheless it requires draining the yoghurt for an excellent 24 hours – you can too simply make the whole lot on the day utilizing shop-bought labneh or some Greek yoghurt blended with just a little double cream.
The berries you utilize are completely as much as you, relying on what’s good and never too costly. You need to use as many or as few sorts as you want, or add some frozen berries – particularly for those who get blitzed within the recipe.
You’ll make extra oil than you want; retailer it in a glass jar to drizzle over salads or frivolously cooked greens.
Prep 20 min
Drain 24 hrs (non-obligatory)
Prepare dinner 40 min
900g sheep’s yoghurt, or cow’s yoghurt
¾ tsp salt
100ml good-quality olive oil
10g lemon thyme sprigs, plus a number of further picked thyme leaves to serve
1 orange; pared, to get 6 finely shaved strips of zest
300g strawberries, hulled and halved lengthways (or quartered in the event that they’re bigger)
50g caster sugar
1 lime; zest finely grated, to get 1 tsp, and juiced, to get 1 tbsp
150g cherries, pitted
Combine the yoghurt and salt in a medium-sized bowl. Line a colander with a bit of cheesecloth giant sufficient to hold over the edges and put the colander over one other bowl. Switch the yoghurt to the cheesecloth and fold over the edges to encase the yoghurt. Put a heavy weight over the fabric, and switch to the fridge to empty for at the least 24 hours (and as much as 48).
In the meantime, put a small pan for which you’ve got a lid on a medium warmth and add the oil. Warmth gently for about seven minutes, or till tiny air bubbles type. Take away from the warmth, add the thyme and orange strips, cowl with a lid and depart to infuse for at the least half an hour, and ideally in a single day.
The subsequent day, add 50g of the blackberries, 100g of the raspberries and 100g of the strawberries, the sugar and lime juice to the small bowl of a meals processor and blitz till fully clean. Add all of the remaining berries and the cherries to a big bowl, add the blitzed fruit and gently mix. You need to use this immediately, or depart within the fridge for a number of hours, bringing again to room temperature earlier than serving.
Unfold the labneh on a big platter. Spoon over the berries, then sprinkle with lime zest. Drizzle with two tablespoons of the infused oil, together with a few the orange strips, and additional thyme leaves.
Berry jelly with kombucha and cucumber
This grown-up jelly satisfies a sweet-tooth whereas nonetheless remaining mild and fresh-tasting, due to the addition of cucumber and the bitter fringe of kombucha.
The jelly will maintain for as much as three days within the fridge, so make it and forward of time when you like. The cream and lime sugar, nonetheless, want getting ready on the day.
Yotam Ottolenghi’s sSummer berry jelly with kombucha and cucumber.
Prep 20 min
Prepare dinner 1 hr
Setting three–6 hr
For the jelly
140g caster sugar
660ml plain kombucha
150g cucumber, roughly chopped
10g basil leaves, roughly torn
15g mint leaves, roughly torn
400g strawberries, hulled and quartered
2 tbsp lime juice
10 fine-leaf, quick-dissolving gelatine leaves (18g)
For the herb and lime sugar
2 tbsp basil leaves, roughly chopped
2 tbsp mint leaves, roughly chopped
2 tsp lime zest
35g caster sugar
For the cream
75g bitter cream
200ml double cream
2 tbsp icing sugar
First, make the jelly. Put the sugar in a small saucepan with 150g of the blueberries and 50ml of the kombucha and placed on a medium-high warmth. Prepare dinner till the blueberries launch their juices and the sugar dissolves – two to 3 minutes. Take away from the warmth and pour into a big bowl with the cucumber, herbs, and half the strawberries and raspberries. Mash with a potato masher till the whole lot is roughly damaged up. Add the lime juice and remaining kombucha and depart to macerate for 30 minutes, or as much as 4 hours.
Pressure the berry liquid by a sieve over a big bowl, urgent to extract as a lot as doable (serve the macerated berries and herbs with yoghurt for breakfast). Measure out 150ml of the berry liquid right into a small saucepan.
Add the gelatin leaves to a small bowl with loads of chilly water and depart to soak for 5 minutes. In the meantime, heat by the saucepan of berry liquid on a medium warmth for a minute or two. Now take away the gelatin from the water, squeeze out as a lot liquid as doable, and add to the warmed berry liquid, whisking properly till fully dissolved. Stir this into the bowl of remaining berry liquid and put aside.
Scatter 100g of the strawberries and 90g every of the blueberries and raspberries into the underside of a deep, giant, glass bowl (about 23cm in diameter), or divide evenly between eight glasses, and put aside. Pour the berry and gelatin liquid excessive and refrigerate till set (round six hours for a big bowl or three hours for particular person glasses).
Pound collectively all of the components for the herb and lime sugar in a mortar till vibrant inexperienced and fully damaged down. Ideally, you need this to dry just a little, nevertheless it’s additionally superb to make use of immediately. To dry, unfold out on to a plate and depart to dry for an hour or two.
To serve, whip collectively the bitter cream, double cream and icing sugar to mushy peaks. Spoon on to the jelly, swirling with the again of the spoon. Prepare the remaining berries decoratively on prime. Sprinkle generously with the herb and lime sugar, serving any leftover sugar alongside.
Lemon and raspberry bars
Dotting these bars with halved raspberries earlier than baking provides them a dramatic look, however the berries do are likely to weep into the curd the longer they sit, so I recommend doing this solely in case you are serving them on the day (and keep in mind, they want 4 hours to relax). For those who make the bars a day forward, depart the raspberries out till the tip and prime the lemon bars simply earlier than serving.
Yotam Ottolenghi’s lemon and raspberry bars.
Prep 25 min
Prepare dinner 1 hr 15 min
Chill four hr
Makes 15 bars
For the shortbread crust
130g plain flour
60g icing sugar, plus further for dusting
¼ tsp flaked sea salt
2 tsp lemon zest
1½ tbsp lemon thyme leaves, roughly chopped, plus further sprigs to garnish
120g unsalted butter, fridge-cold, lower into 1cm cubes
40g flaked almonds, toasted
For the lemon curd filling
three giant eggs
6 egg yolks
250g caster sugar
½ tsp flaked sea salt
6-7 lemons, finely grated to get 2 tbsp zest, then juiced to get 170ml
100g unsalted butter, at room temperature, lower into 1cm cubes
70g raspberries, halved lengthways
Warmth the oven to 165C/145C fan/330F/ gasoline three. Line a 20cm sq. baking tin that has a detachable base with a bit of baking paper giant sufficient to cowl the bottom and sides.
For the crust, add the flour, icing sugar, salt, lemon zest, thyme and butter to a meals processor and pulse a number of instances to a crumbly meal – about 20 seconds. Add the almonds and blitz for a number of seconds extra, till roughly damaged. Switch to the baking tin and use your palms to press the crust into an excellent layer to cowl the bottom. Bake for 40 minutes, or till mild golden, then put aside till wanted.
In the meantime, make the filling. Whisk collectively the eggs, yolks, sugar, salt, and lemon zest and juice, in a medium saucepan till clean. Put over a medium-low warmth and stir repeatedly, till the combination thickens to resemble a pourable pudding – 12-15 minutes.
Take away from the warmth, add the butter and stir till melted and mixed. Pour over the shortbread crust and gently shake the tin to even out. Prime with the raspberries, spreading them out, lower aspect down, urgent them in gently with out fully submerging them.
Bake for 15 minutes, or till set however nonetheless jiggly within the centre. Go away to chill at room temperature for an hour earlier than refrigerating for at the least 4 hours to set fully.
Gently take away the lemon bar from the tin by holding the baking paper on either side, and elevate on to a reducing board. Trim the ends to offer you an ideal sq., then slice into 15 items, wiping the knife clear as you go.
Use a small sieve to mud the highest with icing sugar, then sprinkle with the additional thyme. Serve without delay: these are greatest eaten chilly, not lengthy after they’ve been dusted with sugar.