Georgina Hayden’s horiatiki salata – the last word Greek salad
Tomatoes are one of many hero substances in Greek cooking. They’re the bottom of most of our meals – stewed, battered, pureed, you’ll even discover them made into glyko, a candy protect. For me although, there may be nothing fairly like consuming them uncooked in a conventional Greek salad. It acts as a showcase of the most effective of Greek produce: candy tomatoes, salty fatty olives, peppery additional virgin olive oil and creamy tangy feta. Throw in a wicker chair and a paper tablecloth and I’m in heaven.
Serves Four as a aspect
purple onion ½
purple wine vinegar 1 tbsp
ripe tomatoes 500g
Greek or Lebanese cucumber 1 small (or ½ an everyday cucumber)
inexperienced pepper 1
black kalamata olives 12
additional virgin olive oil Three tbsp, Greek ideally
sea salt and freshly floor black pepper
feta cheese 150g, in 1 piece
recent oregano just a few sprigs, or ¼ tsp dried
Peel and finely slice the purple onion. Place in a big bowl with the purple wine vinegar and depart to at least one aspect for 15 minutes. Roughly chop and slice the tomatoes. Trim and minimize the cucumber in half lengthways, then slice into half moons. Halve the pepper, discarding the seeds, and finely slice into crescents. Place the chopped veg within the bowl with the onions and tear within the olives, discarding the stones. Season effectively and toss along with the olive oil. Switch to a platter and high with the feta slab. Sprinkle over the oregano leaves, recent or dried, and serve right away.
Georgina Hayden is a prepare dinner and meals author. Her newest ebook is Taverna (Sq. Peg, £25)
Diana Henry’s roast tomatoes and lentils with dukkah-crumbed eggs
Diana Henry’s roast tomatoes and lentils with dukkah-crumbed eggs. Photograph: Laura Edwards
You’ll find yourself with extra dukkah than you want for this dish, but it surely appears foolish to make a smaller quantity. Put it into an hermetic container and maintain it for sprinkling on braised beans or bean purees, or for consuming with hard-boiled eggs and radishes. You should utilize pumpkin seeds as an alternative of sunflower seeds, for those who favor.
Serves 6 for lunch or a lightweight primary course
For the dukkah
hazelnuts 75g (skins on)
sesame seeds 50g
nigella seeds 1 tsp
sunflower seeds 1 tbsp
coriander seeds Three tbsp
white peppercorns 1 tbsp
cumin seeds 1 tbsp
floor paprika 1 tsp
sea salt flakes ½ tbsp
For the tomatoes and eggs
plum tomatoes 12 giant, halved
olive oil Three tbsp
harissa 2 tsp
caster sugar ½ tbsp
salt and pepper
eggs 6 giant
For the lentils
olive oil 1 tbsp
onion ½, very finely chopped
celery stick 1, very finely chopped
garlic clove 1, finely chopped
Puy lentils 250g
thyme 1 sprig
bay leaf 1
lemon juice of ½
sherry vinegar 1 tbsp
additional virgin olive oil Three tbsp
coriander leaves 2 tbsp, chopped
To make the dukkah, put the hazelnuts in a dry frying pan and toast over a excessive warmth till they odor roasted. Watch out to not go too far, they burn very simply. Tip them on to a plate to chill a bit of, then crush them in a mortar to a coarsely floor combination.
Put the sesame seeds into the dry frying pan with the nigella and toast till the sesame seeds are golden. Observe with the sunflower seeds. Roughly crush all of the toasted seeds and add to the nuts. Toast the coriander seeds till they odor toasted, then grind them very roughly. Do the identical with the peppercorns, then the cumin seeds. Mix the nuts, seeds and toasted spices with the paprika and salt. Retailer in a jar or different hermetic container till you want it.
For the tomatoes, preheat the oven to 190C/fuel mark 5. Lay the tomatoes in a single layer in a roasting tin. Combine the olive oil and harissa collectively and pour over. Flip to coat, ending minimize aspect up, then sprinkle with sugar and season. Roast within the oven for 45 minutes, or till caramelised in components and barely shrunken.
In the meantime, prepare dinner the lentils. Warmth the oil in a saucepan and gently sauté the onion, celery and garlic till tender however not colored. Add the lentils and switch them over within the oil. Chuck within the thyme and bay leaf. Pour on 700ml water, season evenly, deliver to the boil, cut back the warmth and simmer, uncovered, till the lentils are simply tender. This might take 15-25 minutes relying on their age, so watch them; they’ll flip to mush shortly. When they’re cooked, they need to have absorbed all of the liquid (merely drain them in the event that they haven’t). Take away the thyme and bay leaf. Add the lemon juice. Combine the vinegar and further virgin oil collectively and stir it into the lentils with the coriander. Style for seasoning.
Prepare dinner the eggs in boiling water for six minutes. They need to nonetheless be a bit of runny within the center. Rinse them in chilly water and, as soon as cool sufficient to deal with, shortly peel. Roll them evenly within the dukkah and set every on high of a serving of lentils and tomatoes, or for those who favor to see the yolk, break the egg in half and sprinkle some dukkah on high. Serve instantly.
From A Change of Urge for food: The place scrumptious meets wholesome by Diana Henry (Mitchell Beazley, £25)
José Pizarro’s smoked sardines with salmorejo
José Pizarro’s smoked sardines with salmorejo. Photograph: Emma Lee
Salmorejo is thick, chilly tomato soup that Andalusian individuals usually eat as a starter throughout summer season when it’s extraordinarily scorching. The dish is initially from Cordoba, the place in August the temperature can simply attain 42C. Right here, I serve it with smoked sardines, as we did at my restaurant Pizarro, however you could possibly add fruit reminiscent of melon or grapes to make it even more energizing, for those who favor.
sardines 12 small or 6 giant, gutted and bones eliminated
mild-flavoured wooden chips or sawdust a handful
rosemary 2 sprigs
lavender 2 heads
fruit vinegar 1 tbsp (raspberry, muscatel or apple are good)
sea salt and freshly floor black pepper
For the salmorejo
actually ripe tomatoes 800g, cored and roughly chopped
stale bread 200g (ciabatta, bread roll, rustic loaf), torn
garlic 2 cloves, crushed
sherry vinegar 2 tsp
additional virgin olive oil 75ml
For the lemon thyme croutons
stale bread 100g, cubed
olive oil for frying
lemon thyme Three-Four sprigs
eggs Three free-range
additional virgin olive oil for drizzling
First, clear the sardines. Wash effectively, then take away the heads, slit the bellies and take out the insides. Then, with a pointy knife and fingers, pull out the bones. This may depart you with butterflied fillets. Alternatively, you possibly can ask your fishmonger to do that for you. Lay the fish on a board, skin-side up, and permit the pores and skin to dry out a short time you put together the remainder of the dish.
To make the salmorejo, put the tomatoes in a blender with the bread, garlic, vinegar and olive oil. Season effectively and blitz, including a bit of chilly water to loosen. Season once more to style and chill within the fridge.
Prepare dinner the eggs in boiling water for 6-7 minutes, then cool below chilly water.
To make the croutons, fry the bread in olive oil with the lemon thyme till golden and crisp. Sprinkle with sea salt and drain on kitchen paper.
Line a wok with foil and scatter with just a few wooden chips and the herbs. Press a wire rack excessive of the wooden chips within the wok, making certain it suits inside snugly. Place the fish skinside down on the rack, then cowl the highest with a lid or extra foil, to cease the smoke from escaping. Place over a medium warmth and, as quickly as plumes of smoke have began to seem, smoke for 10-15 minutes, till cooked by. Sprinkle with the fruit vinegar.
Peel and slice the eggs. Pour the soup into broad bowls and high with the croutons, egg slices, smoked sardine fillets and drizzle of additional virgin olive oil.
From Andalusia: Recipes from Seville and past by Jose Pizarro (Hardie Grant, £26)
Caroline McGivern’s inexperienced tomato chutney
Caroline McGivern’s inexperienced tomato chutney. Photograph: Linda Nylind/The Observer
After I lastly bought round to planting my very own tomatoes I managed to cram in 70 seedlings between my very own 4m allotment plot and the neighbour’s raised mattress. For sure, the tip outcome was half a mountain of unripened fruit as soon as the rising season was over. Unripe inexperienced tomatoes can be found on the finish of the tomato rising season and are sometimes cheaper than the ripe varieties.
It is a household recipe that I’ve tailored so as to add some depth and get the most effective out of the tomatoes. I exploit a mix of sugars together with darkish muscovado which provides a richer flavour. To save lots of time (plus I favor my combine to be wonderful), I pulse the tomatoes, onions and apples in a processor beforehand.
It’s a chutney that goes with every thing; omelette, curries or with a wedge of cheese and sourdough.
Makes roughly 2.5kg
inexperienced tomatoes 1.8kg, roughly chopped
cooking apples 1.8kg, peeled, cored and roughly chopped
onions 450g, peeled and finely chopped
garlic 2 cloves, crushed (elective)
salt 1 tbsp
pickling spice 1 tbsp
root ginger 30g, roughly chopped
malt vinegar 565ml
Place the inexperienced tomatoes, apples and onions in a big pan with the garlic (if utilizing), sultanas and salt. Tie collectively the pickling spice, ginger and chilli in a muslin bag and add to the pan. Add half the malt vinegar and gently deliver to the boil. Cut back the warmth and simmer for an hour or till the fruit is lowered to a pulp and the combination is thick.
Gently dissolve the sugar within the remaining vinegar then add to the chutney. Simmer for an extra 1½ hours, stirring typically till the combination is thick.
Take away and discard the muslin bag with the spices and whereas the chutney continues to be scorching, spoon into sterilised jars. Seal with hermetic, vinegar-proof covers.
Caroline McGivern is the Observer Journal’s deputy artwork director
Kitty Travers’s tomato and white peach sorbet
Kitty Travers’s tomato and white peach sorbet. Photograph: Martin Poole/The Observer
One of many biggest pleasures I do know is to eat together with the characters from books and on TV exhibits. In one in all Laura Ingalls Wilder’s Little Home books there’s a passage I at all times discovered unbelievable: on a scorching day Laura’s ma slices up a ripe tomato, and serves it coated with cream and sugar – to be eaten like a peach!
I mulled over the concept of a tomato ice-cream for years (tomatoes are literally fruits, so it must make sense) earlier than lastly getting an opportunity to check it out utilizing an actual old school hand-cranked machine on a ranch I used to be educating at in Colorado. Hand-cranked ice-cream machines are enjoyable and though the tomato ice-cream seemed scrumptious – creamy and candy-pink – nobody might swallow the stuff; it was too bizarre. I put the distinction in style all the way down to the truth that Laura Ingalls and household had been too removed from peaches, and had come near ravenous in earlier years resulting from drought and crop failure. And we had been very removed from ravenous. Additionally, I suppose tastes change.
As a substitute, I’ve settled upon this easy and refreshing recipe, uncommon somewhat than flat-out bizarre, and really beautiful. It produces a chic, shell-pink sorbet with tender sweetness from the tomato and fruitiness from the white peach.
Makes roughly 1 litre
white peaches Three, or Four flat white peaches
ripe tomatoes 2 (San Marzano are significantly flavoursome)
To arrange the sorbet: warmth the sugar and water collectively in a pan to make a easy syrup, stirring to dissolve the grains of sugar. As quickly because the syrup begins to simmer take away it from the warmth. Put aside to chill after which chill within the fridge till wanted.
Rinse the tomatoes and peaches, slice them right into a bowl, cowl with the cool easy syrup and chill within the fridge for not less than Four hours, giving it time to essentially draw the flavour out of the tomato and peach skins.
Take away the macerated fruits from the fridge and liquidise them for two minutes till very easy. Cross the combination by a fine-mesh sieve or chinois, discarding the pores and skin and pips.
To make the sorbet: pour the shell-pink purée into an ice cream machine and churn based on the machine’s directions, normally about 20-25 minutes, until frozen and thick and creamy wanting. If you happen to don’t have an ice-cream machine, freeze the combination in a giant bowl. Each 45 minutes, take it out and whisk or beat vigorously. Do that three or 4 instances, till easy and uniformly frozen
Switch the sorbet to an acceptable lidded container. Prime with a chunk of waxed paper to restrict publicity to air, cowl and freeze till able to serve. Eat inside a fortnight.
From La Grotta Ices by Kitty Travers (Sq. Peg, £18.99)
The Guardian goals to publish recipes for sustainable fish. For scores in your area, examine: UK; Australia; US