Tright here’s a rack of ribs within the oven. Glistening with date and pomegranate syrup, one candy, the opposite bitter, they’re slowly browning to a mirror glaze. The ribs are on a wire rack resting over a roasting tin that I’ve lined with foil in order that any drips of syrup don’t burn on the tin. It’s a bugger to scrape off.
There have been so many ribs on this oven through the years: ribs with molasses, ribs with chilli paste, ribs with aniseed and honey, and ribs with maple syrup and mustard. I steam them first, within the piece to maintain them juicy, the entire size of bone, flesh and fats coated with foil and left in a gradual oven for a superb couple of hours. The meat cooks in its personal steam and turns into so tender you possibly can pull the ribs aside with two forks.
They get a second shot within the oven, thickly brushed with their sweet-and-sour dressing, the warmth turned up excessive. The sugars caramelise. The perimeters blacken and blister, and the meat will keep succulent inside its polished mahogany crust. I allow them to sit for 10 minutes earlier than separating into lumps of two or three ribs, then pile them on prime of a mound of rust-red, kickass kimchi into which I’ve tossed some ice-cold cucumber.
There’s a cherry tart for pudding: a kind of bakewell however extra seasonal, made with the generosity of pistachios and ripe cherries. We’ll eat within the backyard and everybody can throw their bones and stones within the bushes.
Cherry pistachio tart
Bake the tart case first to make sure it’s crisp. Place a baking sheet within the oven to get scorching earlier than you begin baking.
For the pastry:
plain flour 200g
egg yolk 1
water about 2 tbsp
For the frangipane:
caster sugar 125g
floor almonds 60g
For the filling:
morello cherry jam 250g
flaked almonds three tbsp
Put the flour and butter right into a meals processor and scale back to gentle crumbs, then add the egg yolk adopted by sufficient water to make a agency however barely sticky dough. In case you desire, reduce the butter into cube, rub into the flour with fingertips then combine within the egg and water. Switch to a calmly floured board or work floor, pat right into a thick disc, wrap in kitchen paper and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Warmth the oven to 200C/fuel mark 6. Roll the pastry out and use to line a 23cm loose-bottomed tart tin. Fill with baking parchment or foil and baking beans then bake for 20 minutes. Take away the paper or foil and beans and return to the oven for a couple of minutes till the pastry is dry.
Whereas the pastry is baking, make the frangipane. Cream collectively the butter and sugar till gentle and fluffy. (That is best achieved with a meals mixer fitted with a beater attachment.) Whereas the combination is creaming, grind the pistachios to a high quality powder in a meals processor. Break the eggs right into a bowl, beat calmly with a fork, then add to the butter and sugar. If the combination exhibits any signal of curdling or turns into grainy, introduce a bit flour. Lastly, combine in all of the flour, all the bottom nuts and put aside.
Stone the cherries. Take away the pastry case from the oven and switch the oven all the way down to 160C/fuel mark three. Unfold the bottom of the pastry case with the jam. Scatter the stoned cherries over then spoon within the frangipane and easy the floor.
Scatter the flaked almonds over the tart and bake for 40 minutes till the filling feels calmly agency. Take away from the oven and permit to chill earlier than making an attempt to take away the case and slicing.
Pork ribs with kimchi and cucumber
Sticky and succulent: pork ribs with kimchi and cucumber. Photograph: Jonathan Lovekin/The Observer
a rack of pork ribs, pores and skin eliminated 1 kg
fennel seeds 1 tbsp
bay leaves three
black peppercorns 12
date syrup 2 tbsp
pomegranate molasses 2 tbsp
For the kimchi slaw:
Put the kettle on. Flip the oven to 160C/fuel mark three. Calmly crush the fennel seeds with a pestle and mortar and put them in a roasting tin with the bay leaves and peppercorns. Pour freshly boiled water into the tin and place a metallic rack for the pork to sit down on over the roasting tin.
Season the ribs with salt, then place on the rack and canopy the tin and pork tightly with tinfoil. Place within the oven and bake for 2½ hours till the meat is tender (it ought to pull simply from its bones).
Combine the date syrup and pomegranate molasses. Take away the roasting tin from the oven, take off the foil, elevate off the rack and pour away the water. Flip the oven as much as 220C/fuel mark eight. Line the roasting tin with foil then exchange the rack and pork on the tin and brush the meat generously with the syrup.
Return the meat to the oven, uncovered, and bake for about 10 minutes, then brush it with extra of the syrup. Return to the oven for an extra 10 minutes or till the meat is darkish, sticky and shiny. Take away the meat from the tin and depart to relaxation for 10 minutes earlier than reducing into ribs and serving with the slaw under.
For the kimchi slaw, peel the cucumber and reduce into slim matchstick-sized items. Slice the radishes into skinny rounds then add each to the kimchi and put aside for a superb hour.
Electronic mail Nigel at firstname.lastname@example.org or comply with him on Twitter @NigelSlater